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July 11, 2006

Osama bin Laden in Burkina Faso

The face of Osama bin Laden glared down at me from his camel, a kalashnikov gun in his hand.

Fortunately, he was only on the front of a t-shirt of a young boy, who was standing listening as I chatted at Gorom-Gorom market with some friends. Bin Laden is not physically in Burkina Faso, of course - in spite of the occasional local rumour he was hiding out it Deou, a remote market town north of Gorom-Gorom. However, t-shirts with his face are widespread - although not as widely seen now as in 2002. But what does this mean - does he really have so much support here?

"Ada anndi mo, naa?" I asked the boy. "Do you know who he is?"
"Samma Biladden" the boy replied knowledgably.
"Uh-huh, and who is he?"
The boy shrugged. No idea. I asked my friends, who also didn't know. I reminded them of the events of 9-11, which they had heard of on the radio, and they looked with renewed concern at the boy's t-shirt, the boy now squirming with the sudden attention directed at his chest.
"Robel mawdo!" I heard them say with alarm and awe. "He is a major bad guy!"

Wahhabiya Islam and a bit of dress sense
In the period after 9/11, ObL t-shirts were to be seen everywhere, worn around Gorom-Gorom and sold at the market, with ObL in various heroic poses. Like the boy I met, many people who have no idea who ObL is, and who certainly would not support his cause, were trotting round Gorom with his face adorning their chests. If you have no money to buy new clothes, and someone offers you a free t-shirt, what will you say...?

I can only imagine that someone with a lot of money had them made and shipped in, and then distributed or sold very cheaply through the network of Wahhabiya Muslims there. This is the Islamic sect to which ObL belongs. It doesn't imply that the Wahhabiya in Gorom support ObL of course, anymore than the Gorom church receiving t-shirts for distribution with David Beckham on should be seen as England football supporters.

The Wahhabiya are a Sunni sect, a more conservative, and revivalist group than the other Muslim sects in Gorom. (We have 4 altogether, including the Tijaniyya, the Ahmadiyya, and the Qadiriyya). However, the Wahhabiya in Gorom are generally peacable - certainly not extremist or terrorist. But they are fairly new arrivals in Gorom - in the last 10 years - and their particular form of Islam (traditional dress, rejection of the use of charms, way of praying etc) has set them apart and caused some tensions - even arguments - with the other sects.

They are not wealthy, but they do get money from somewhere - for example, to build their mosque (another cause for fall-out with the other Muslims, who claimed there should only be one "Friday mosque" in town). Maybe the same source provided the ObL t-shirts. Maybe they were surplus to requirement - after all, Wahhibiya Muslims don't generally wear t-shirts...

By their clothes shall you know them...?
In any case, most people wearing the t-shirts, like the boy at market, have no idea who ObL is. This is higlighted by this picture of a sweet young mother and friend of ours in Gorom. It might not be obvious, but she is wearing an Osama bin Laden t-shirt, and an Assemblies of God skirt - and with no idea what either of them are! Both were probably given to her.

Sometimes dress can tell you something about the person wearing the clothes. And - whether that is an ObL t-shirt, or a "hoody", that can initially be frightening. But sometimes the reason for what the person is wearing is not what we think, and we can wrongly judge them. Sometimes, the only way to find out is to get past our fear, and to get to know the person and their story.

Clothing doesn't last long here. The ObL t-shirts have by now mostly been worn too thin to last. They have been replaced by ones with President Blaise Compaore (after last year's elections), which will no doubt soon be supplanted by the cast-offs from this year's World Cup. Expect to see Zidane and Beckham and co in Gorom soon. But don't read too much into their popularity...

Tags: burkina burkina faso africa osama bin laden clothes islam wahibiya 9-11 hoodies

Posted by Keith at July 11, 2006 01:13 PM