« Pastoral Idyll | Main | Two Beakers »
February 28, 2004
Hoofing it
Dear friends,
There are two words in Fulfulde for a long journey with cows. Eggol is a long journey with your own cows, usually going to an area of good pasture or to a natural salt-lick. The purpose of eggol is fine, fat cows. Then there is choggal. Choggal is a long journey with someone else's cows, usually going to a distant market. The purpose of choggal is to sell the cows to fine people at a fat profit.
Every Thursday morning groups of herders leave Djibo cattle market and begin the nine-day choggal to Ouagadougou market. They walk all day and watch the cattle all night. They go hungry and thirsty. They get tired and sick. The scorching midday sun beats on their heads, the cold night air numbs their feet. They get cramp and blisters. Those who do it say choggal is the hardest job on earth - but then most people think that about their job, don't they?
From the moment I first heard about choggal I wanted to do it. I have always been inspired by Luke's Emmaus road account - a stranger coming alongside two men on the road and storying with them about the things of God until they felt like their hearts were burning within them. Ministry on the move - what a romantic idea. So the Thursday before last I put a toothbrush and a tin of coffee and a gospel of Luke in a shoulder-bag and set off to the animal market.
When I got to the market I found a herd of cows and a group of herders. A big Fulani man was standing in front of them, wearing sunglasses and a long, glittery robe with a matching turban. Obviously the owner of the cows, choosing people to coggal for him. The herders milled around him, fawning and simpering. You know the scene from Toy Story: "Choose me, choose me!" I joined the throng - "Choose me, choose me!" Everyone fell silent and looked round at me, and then they laughed long and loud.
Glittery Robe was laughing, too. "White man, are you lost?" (Laughter from herders)
"I want to follow your men." (More laughter from herders)
"You are not able to do choggal."
"Let me try."
"Where is your staff?" (Laughter)
"I do not have one." (Laughter)
"I have chosen my walkers, white man. I can not pay another."
"I do not want to be paid." (Laughter)
"Then you are mad. Follow then - see, the men are leaving now."
It was true - already the cows were moving off, accompanied by the four chosen walkers - one up front, whistling, and three following behind calling "Oss, oss!". I trotted off to join them, and then someone called me back. It was one of the herders who had not been chosen that day. He handed me his staff and said "Allah moyyin' laawol" - May God prepare your way.
I find it hard to describe the days that followed, but I will never forget them. It was physically hard, as everyone had warned me it would be, but also a very joyful time. We laughed a lot together, and talked about everything under the sun (we talked about the sun itself as well, as he certainly made his presence felt). This is not the place for a detailed travelogue. But I do ask for prayer for the four herders I travelled with. They are now probably my closest friends here, and represent possible openings into three unreached Fulani villages.
Idrissa was the leader of the group. At 47, he has been doing choggal for over 30 years. He is from Jawjaw, a village very near Djibo.
Boureima (34) is also from Jawjaw, and is keen to know more about Jesus. On day one of the journey he said, "When we get back you must teach me the Linjil (gospel) from the beginning." I said, "Okay then."
Macca is from a village called Sey, some way north of Djibo, where we already have contacts. He is very quiet, and excellent with cows.
Diallo (26) is from Mondoro, a large town just across the border into Mali. Diallo is extremely devout - he would stop for each of the five Muslim prayer-times and then run to catch up with us. He asked me why I didn't stop to pray too, and I told him I was praying as I walked along. Diallo thought that was hilarious.
I followed the choggal for four days and then walked to the main road and caught a lift to Ouagadougou, where I waited to greet the herders on their triumphal entry to the animal market. They arrived shortly after midday on day nine, eyes bloodshot but smiling. Glittery Robe turned up to take charge of the cows, and gave Idrissa and company their pay (15,000 African francs each - about 15 pounds sterling). Diallo spent his money immediately on a digital watch sold by a pedlar, and was then very disappointed to find the alarm did not work. We found a truck bound for Djibo and came home the quick and cow-less way.
Thanks for your continuing prayers about the radio. The date for applications has been moved back again, which is frustrating, but we continue to plan and pray. Galen Johnson, SIM's media person in Ouagadougou, has decided to give time to the project, which I am very happy about. He has lots of good ideas about how to build and run the station and I am enjoying working with him on this.
I am going to Brazil in May. World Horizons run a big program there, mobilizing, training and sending out missionaries from the vibrant churches of Latin America. I hope to have a couple months at their base in Monteverde. The main reason for my going is to spend time with Carminha, a Brazilian girl I have got to know over the last two years. Carminha was working as a Horizons missionary in Niger, but is now back in Brazil. We would both appreciate prayer during this time. This will not be a goodbye to Africa - more of an au revoir.
Best wishes to you and your families. Allah moyyin' laawol.
Steve
Posted by sahelsteve at February 28, 2004 04:37 PM